Line Up!

To get my plaid pocket lining to match up with the pocket opening,

clearly VERY IMPORTANT...


:-)

Start by laying the front garment piece (cut from fashion fabric but with paper still pinned to it) carefully on top of the folded, aligned and prepared fabric. (OR trace off a few lines first, cut the paper out and then lay the front piece out on the folded fabric, either way is fine as long as you are accurate.)

If you haven't already done so, using a ruler, peer through the paper and mark off a few lines of the plaid with a pencil, so you can see where everything should be lined up.

Although you are marking those lines through the paper, from the cut front piece itself, you still need to line the whole thing up with the plaid underneath.

 This way, you can line up your newly cut pocket piece just below, and cut out the pockets in line with the front...

Try putting a tiny letter at the end of each line on the pocket pattern piece to indicate

color changes.

 I put a tiny "R" at the end of the red lines so I could distinguish them.

As you can see in the photo below (or maybe not) the fabric is not cut, but only the paper (jacket front) pattern piece.

This piece has already been cut in fabric, so the paper puckering where the pins are, is a result of moving it around and will not bother anything. It's just really annoying to look at:-)

Now lay the paper pocket piece you cut out, just below the front piece on the new folded fabric, doing so exactly as marked and pin carefully.

Check the bottom layer has not shifted.

Now cut a 5/8 seam allowance around it as you carefully cut out the pocket/pocket lining.

Clip a tiny mark at each corresponding edge, through all layers, for the pocket opening on the pocket and on the main front piece where the paper has been cut out.

Now, when the seam allowance is sewn, you should have perfectly aligned edges where the outside and inside pocket edges meet.

I say should have,

because this is terrible tricky and it is nearly impossible to keep something from shifting, somehow - somewhere.

 When the jacket is constructed we shall see if the pockets line up as expected.

You can see the fabric is shifted along the way here, and a missing piece of fabric in the middle.
That's because I cut out the front facing as well, while everything was lined up. I will do another post with those pictures.



Link to final result here...